All about the shoe
How many pairs of shoes do you have? Five? Seven? More? But how well do you know each style? We take a look at the different styles and their evolution.
The Oxford shoe
The oxford shoe gets its name from a shoe called the Oxonian that was popular at Oxford around the 1800s. The Oxonian was a half boot with side slits. The side-slits soon evolved into a side-lace and eventually the side-lace moved to the instep. The cap-toe oxford was mostly worn on formal occasions and to work, but today, it is made from a variety of materials and in numerous styles, and is also part of the casual attire.
The Blucher
The Blucher is named after Prussian general Gebhard Leberecht von Blucher, who, before he fought Napoleon at Waterloo, commissioned a better-built shoe for his troops. In the mid-1850s, the blucher was worn as a hunting shoe and it later evolved into a town shoe. According to Alan Flusser’s Dressing the Man, the Blucher was “distinguished from earlier shoes by the forward extension of its quarters over the vamp…it often has a tongue cut in one piece with the forepart”. The contemporary blucher complements both formal and casual occasions, and is considered to be slightly less dressy than the oxford.
The monk-strap
This style of shoe was first worn by friars in Italy in the 15th century, and it travelled to England, thanks to a visiting monk who was highly impressed with its construction. A contemporary monk strap has an upper made of three pieces, and is available in different avatars, including brogue monk straps and suede monks. Modern monk straps, including the double monk, which, essentially, is a monk strap with two straps, slot somewhere in between a lace-up and a slip-on and can handle both work and leisure.
The chukka boot
The original chukka boot was a two-eyelet ankle boot, and, despite numerous interpretations, it still remains the most stylish. The chukka boot was popular among polo players during the Raj, and the British named it after the ‘chukker’ (a period of continuous play that lasted around seven minutes). Chukka boots are generally made of suede or calf-skin and are quintessentially casual.
The wing tip brogue
The brogue is a low heeled oxford that features perforations known as broguings. Brogues were first worn in the Scottish highlands and by the Irish, and the elaborate punchings that adorn brogues today were once actually holes punched into the shoe to drain water out in the Highlands. The wing tip brogue is considered less dressy than a cap-toe oxford brogue.
The suede shoe
The suede shoe first made its mark when it was worn in 1924, in America, by the Prince of Wales. And its first sighting, at a polo match at Long Island, left many aghast. The Prince of Wales had worn his suede shoes with a suit no less, and for a long time, suede shoes weren’t considered to be proper attire for real men. Today, while suede shoes are essentially considered casual wear, it is not uncommon to find stylish men who team, say, suede brogues up with a good suit.
The Slip-On Moccasin/Loafers
The moccasin evolved from the simple shoddings stitched by Norwegian fishermen. Over time these shoes were worked on by Norwegian designers and exported to Britain and Europe. The Norwegian designers, in fact, were inspired by Native Indians who, according to Flusser, inserted a plug of leather to cover the forepart of the foot and hand-stitched it to a combination sole and upper. The Norwegian design has seen numerous interpretations, including the penny loafer, the tassled loafer and the Gucci loafer. Loafers or moccasins are worn by both men and women with jeans, chinos and trousers. They should be ideally worn without socks. Out here, we should also mention the Dress Slip-On, a lightweight, more difnified Italian interpretation, that was once, and, at times, is still seen in boardrooms in America.




